Honor Page 25

My wife, Edwina, and myself have just returned home from a week's visit to Berlin. This was a place where I served two years of my life at the raw age of 18-20 years. I can say to you that the Berlin I knew in the 50's, was no longer there. I really did not expect it to be, nor did I want it to be. In the following lines, I will try to share with you my experiences, and some of the impressions that I returned home with. It was a whirlwind trip, but many memories were still there for me.

I got to know this retired German Police Officer by the name of Reinhard von Bronewski on his web site that I just happened to stumble across several months ago. As I sit here now, it was one of the best things that has happened to me in many years. Reinhard and I just kind of became friends on the web, and he and his family were the main purpose of our trip. I just wanted to shake the hand of the man that was willing to spend his time and money to keep this web site running for myself, and many more Berlin Vets. It takes a lot of work and commitment to do what he is doing!

Our flight left DFW to JFK, and from there we boarded Delta Flight 78 to Berlin. It was an overnight flight, and I slept not a wink because of anticipation. As we began our approach to Tegel Airport, I felt a tear run down my face as I could see the houses appear below us. Quickly, I tried to erase it, but another just came. Would I remember anything? Would any of my 18 year old footprints still be there? When we landed and went to the baggage claim area, I saw this man and lady standing outside the claim area, and they were jumping up and down and waving at us. Who would not recognize that smile that was so large on his face. Reinhard had told us that he and Andrea would meet our plane, and I surely recognized them by the many photos of them I had seen. It was really like coming back to meet an old friend again. When finally we got our bags and met them, they were both just as I expected. Both of them had a good handle on English, and this made it very nice for my wife and I. From the airport, they escorted us by taxi to our Hotel. (Best Western Hotel President) That was after my first Currywurst in 50 years. My system was not just right, and I didn't enjoy it as I thought I would. I did enjoy several downtown after that, though. They were always my favorite snacks while on pass downtown. The Bockwurst and Wieners, were still delicious with that really tasty mustard. Remember them guy's? I always loved the German food.

When we arrived at the hotel, our room was not ready yet, so away we went to the Wittenbergplatz U-Bahn station, which was just around the corner from our hotel. Here Reinhard and Andrea explained the trains to us and helped us to buy our 7-day pass that would allow us to use all the BVG transportation systems. They explained to us how to get to Zehlendorf, and to Reinhard's home. Not to worry about getting lost though, because this angel named Andrea would always come to Wittenbergplatz to meet us, and then would escort us back each time. I could really feel the true concern she had for our safety. When we returned to our Hotel, our room was still not ready, but Reinhard had a conversation with the clerk, and at once they changed our room, and also with an up-grade. What a friend our retired policeman is, as we were both very exhausted from the flights.

Reinhard drove us to many places in and around Berlin, but first let me give you this one impression I got of the German people in Berlin. I told this observation of mine to Angela (Reinhard's wife), but she did not really agree to it. I really got to looking at all the people everywhere I went, and folks, there are no Fat or obese German's in Berlin. They are a society of fit people. I was really amazed at this, because there is a Bakery on every corner, and an Imbiss on the other corner. These places are always full of people eating---but not fat people as we see here in America. We could certainly learn something from the German's about our cooking and eating habits. If any of you get to go there again, just look and take notice of what I am saying. When we returned to New York, I knew my observation was really true. Maybe it is all the walking and bike riding that keeps them fit, I thought.

On two occasions, Reinhard took us to McNair barracks, my home for two years. I was a member of Mortar Battery, 2^nd B. G., 6^th Infantry. This was before the re-organization that brought about the Berlin Brigade. Our title then was Berlin Command. Although my old home was still standing, it was a sad sight for me. I didn't feel it so much the first time we went, but the second trip we made really got the memories stirred up. As we strolled around the compound, a lot of things had already disappeared, but some were still there. I see the old movie, just across the street, and the PX. Both are really grown up with weeds. Around the back of the movie, there was the old reliable snack bar, where one could get a real grilled cheese sandwich for 10 or 15 cents. And a coke! What a treat if you had a quarter. Don't laugh, cause I can remember days at end of month, that there was not a quarter to spare. Pay was not very good then. I could not get as close to my building as I wanted, because construction had it fenced off. Yet, I could still see and remember the two sets of windows on the top floor that I had stared out of many times. I have brought a small piece of the building next to mine (Headquarters Co.), as another souvenir. My friend went over and retrieved this for me. Our friend, Reinhard, took care of us in every way, and I am greatly in-debted to him.

It appears my building will be up for re-newal before long, so I got there just in time to see it as it was in the 50's. There were no soldiers there any longer, but sometimes I imagined I could see some of my buddies there. I could see where our Arms Room was on the bottom floor, the bars were still on the windows. The mind can do funny things. McNair will be totally gone before many more years, but I see that the Chapel is still there, and seems to still be well kept and used. The All American Club (Service Club) and the Starlight Club were still intact, but hardly recognizable. After finishing our McNair tour, we went across Goerzallee to where the 3rd Battle Group Motor pool was.
What's this, now it is a large shopping center there--no Army trucks. We went to a huge store by the name of OBI. Looking at this store with the orange colors, looked just like our Home Depot stores. Only difference was the four of us enjoyed a fine Bockwurst there--one of those big, juicy ones! I notice when crossing Goerzallee, that my Strassenbahn tracks were no longer there. These have been done away with in West Berlin, but still exist on the Eastern side. (much newer models) The Strassenbahn was my main mode of travel around Berlin, mainly because it stopped right at the front gate of McNair. We had no U-Bahn Station near McNair, so that was not an option then. The U-Bahn, and the S-Bahn were new experiences for me, and they are truly very efficient people movers. Reinhard and Andrea made sure that we had a chance to travel on everything the BVG had to offer. We rode the BVG busses, and also took a ride on the Strassenbahn in East Berlin.

It's funny, you see, we still talk of Berlin as East and West. Before I came here, I just always had the impression that it was a totally a United Berlin. It's not the same as it was when the Russian's were in control in the East, but I still got the sense of a division of the two existing sides today. When we left the Hotel one morning, there was a huge group of people that were on strike, and as far as I could understand from their pamphlet, they wanted to be paid the same as the people from the West. There was still some sort of discrimination between the East and West. I did not really understand all of it, but Reinhard tells me that there are still people in the East that would just as soon the Wall was still standing. Hearing this really disturbed me, because I had always believed that the two sides were one now. I remember our 2^nd BG motto "UNITY IS STRENGTH". Then why not East and West Berlin? The only good thing I could bring to mind about this was at least the people were allowed to have a voice of their own now. Maybe as a couple of generations go by, this will help the problem. I just don't know.

We took a horse and carriage ride, one of our days, through the streets like 'Unter den Linden' of East Berlin. I actually was allowed to walk through the Brandenburger Tor. I actually reached out and touched it. This was a great experience for me, as we were never allowed to even get close to it when I served there. And certainly we would never go to Alexanderplatz. A true thrill for an old soldier. I don't see the Communist effect there any longer, and this makes me feel good.

A lot of progress is being made on the East side, but I notice still a lot of construction going on. On the East side of the Brandenburger Tor is a carnival atmosphere. There were street vendors, and actors around. I purchased a few souvenirs there. A true cap of the GDR, a cap emblem from the Russian Army, and one from the GDR. Why did I want these things? These were symbols of terror when I served there! I guess because they were there without the soldiers. Even on a cold day, the tourists were everywhere. Lines were too long for us to wait in to go to some of the places I would loved to have seen. Tourists in Berlin? What is this? Guess I was one also, but somehow, I did not feel like a tourist. I felt as if I had come home again. A lot of things have changed in Berlin, but all the grand old monuments and buildings will not change. They will stand there, in all their glory, till the end of time.

We had only one day of sunshine on our visit, and we took this opportunity to visit the Grunewald. We made our way through the beautiful trees, and Reinhard would relate stories to us as we went. We finally reached the site of Reinhard's memory bench, and there was that tear again. Can't let anyone see it, I thought. Reinhard tells me that this is the area of the Blue Spaders, and where they trained a lot. I hope you didn't mind me being in your woods, Gene. I supposed that I could see all of you there in those woods. You came to Berlin after I had already gone. The wall went up just about a year after I left, and I understand your Units came as re-enforcements. I always wondered who in the world would come to our aid if those blasted Russian's ever decided to get ugly. We just did not have the numbers to repel them. I have read somewhere that our life expectancy was about 15 minutes if they ever launched an attack. Never bothered me then, but it does now that I think of it. I kind of feel like we were Sacrificial Lambs, because help was a long way off. That's the reason we have young people fight our wars for us. No Fear. Thanks Gene!! Too bad that you could not be with us !

On the way to the Friendship Bench, Reinhard pointed out what was once a fox-hole. He walked over, and I saw him bend over and pick up something. It was an M-1 blank shell, fired of course. I kind of laughed to myself---even now he still has the ability to find this brass. Wiping off the end, we could see it was manufactured in l947, his year of birth. He handed it to me for a good souvenir from our trip. I put the casing in my pocket, not sure of what airport securities would think of it. When I would go through security, I would just put it in the tray with my pocket change and metal objects. Nothing was said, and I now have it at home with me. Finally, we came to this bench sitting atop this small hill. It was a beautiful spot to sit and take a rest. I know this bench means a lot to Reinhard, and he has put in a lot of work just to maintain it. Vandals have ruined it twice with large scratches, but each time he would re-work it and leave it in the forest where he had known the American troops as a boy. Talk about dedication---this is one dedicated human being.

I really hate to make this too long, but there is just so much to relate about our trip. One day, we took a ride down the Havelchausee and to the Dauerwald and Wannsee area. On this trip down the Havel, I really went back to my old Berlin days. I had driven this road by my 3/4 truck many times as a 19 year old boy, and all the ghosts were still there. All the big oak trees just seemed to speak to me, and welcomed me back. Drat, here comes that tear again. Later we went to this beautiful Church called Peter and Paul. There nearby was this restaurant, I think the name was Blockhaus. I knew I had been there to eat before in my life. The nice smells were wafting into the air outside. After this, we went on to Strandbad Wannsee, the place with all the nice Frauleins in the summer. It was closed for the season, but somehow, Reinhard convinced the guard there to allow us in and go to the beach area to take a few photos. Lots and lots of ghosts were there. We did not linger long so the guard would not get in trouble. We took our pictures and left. Still nearly the same place as it was 50 years ago, but from my old pictures of the beach area, I can see some definite change. What a nice memory trip it was!

One ride took us by the site where the Turner Barracks were. The old home of my friend, Connie Schornhorst. There was absolutely nothing left, but we took a few pictures anyway. We went by Andrews Barracks, but you have to get permission to get in there. A lot of these buildings are still standing, and are in use. A trip to the Allied Museum yielded a great surprise for me. I was able to purchase one of the very few of Reinhard's books that were left. It was the second book he wrote. We saw what we always knew as Truman Plaza---not the same any longer.

On one ride, Reinhard took us into the Potsdam area, and across the Freedom Bridge. No one shot at us---unbelievable. I had seen the Freedom Bridge once before, but never from the other side. Potsdam was a quite interesting place. It seemed to be a completely different world, even now. The buildings were still old looking, but not in a torn up state. We saw what were some old GDR buildings for the soldiers, and I have to guess that in the 50's, they were some pretty drab places. All things in Potsdam just seemed to be completely different than in the Western area.

One night at Reinhard's and Angela's home, I was presented with a real surprise and treasure. It was a wooden Berlin plaque, hand made by Angela's Father, Otto. I had a very pleasant experience in getting to speak to Otto on the phone. Otto speaks no English, but I tried in my best way to tell him in German how much I loved it. My attempt at the German language was very feeble, but I had Angela right at hand to interpret for us. It was a real honor to speak to the man that had made this treasure for me. Also was given an enlarged photo of Reinhard, Angela, Edwina, and myself, as we were out to eat one evening. This is already framed, and ready to go on my wall.

We traveled to a lot of places, and in a small allotted time period. Many memories came back to me on these trips. As our time there passed, and it got near time for us to leave, I realized something. It truly was not the Berlin city that I had fallen in love with in the 50's, but it was the people that lived there. Yes, the American, French, and British presence there had some to do with the final outcome of a terrible situation, but I have concluded that for a fact that it was the strong will of the German population, and their desire to live as a free people that was the main factor of the final outcome. We were only a grass burr in the Russian's feet. I realize that another war just nearly started in Berlin, and that really makes me shudder even today.

I had some wonderful German friends in my stay in Berlin, but none like I found on this trip. I salute you Reinhard, Angela, Andrea, Mike, Nicole, and of course little Jami! You were all just so wonderful to us, and the correct words I should say are just not good enough. Edwina and I not only consider you as our very dear friends, but we think of you as our extended family. This will be the case for the rest of our lives. We probably will never get to make this trip again because this was a luxury for us. But you will always be in our minds, and in our hearts. Thank You for the time of our old lives. Thank you Angela for the fine traditional meals that you cooked for us. Thank you Andrea for being our guardian Angel. Thank you Mike and Nicole just for being so nice. And JAMI, one day when you are older, and can read this, you will understand why David and Edwina will not be back to see you.

Feedbacks :
Lloyd (Gene) Keller :
Reinhard and Dave, I am both happy and also sad after reading the two stories that were submitted by Dave. I am happy that Dave and his wife got to personally meet the kind and caring proprietor of this great website and his family and friends.I am happy that they were able to see so many wonderful sights while in the great city. I am happy that Dave got to see his old haunts once again. I am happy for Dave because he was once again able to remember some of the times and experiences he had while stationed there. I am happy that he had the wonderful 'Guardian Angel ' (Andrea) to look after their safety while traveling to and from. I am happy that they had the wonderful tour guides that they did. (Angela and Reinhard) I am happy that they got to meet the rest of the family and to find out just how wonderful they all are. Dave, this family is truly amazing. You will not find too many people in this world like them. They are part of my family now. You have just experienced something wonderful that you will never forget. The sadness that I feel is that I have not been able to get back yet. Dave, wonderful stories. Thank you for sharing. The old 'Blue Spader', -Gene-

John Parmenter :
What a great story! David Henderson is a good writer, also. His story about finding fellow Berlin NCO Academy candidate Connie Schornhorst (50 years later!) is amazing. Another excellent addition to www.Berlin-Brigade.de -- a history website for all of us old guys who served in Berlin. -John-

Buddy Green :
Hi Reinhard, David and Edwina, you all have done a great job on your stories you wrote. David I might have had a beer with you in Berlin in 59 or 60...... -buddy-

Joe Scaletta:
Reinhard, I just read the new addition, as always a great job! You and your family know how to make people feel at home. I just cannot get enough of your site, I must have read it ten times. Every time I read it, I find something that I've missed the time before. I can see Dave and Edwina had a great time in Berlin while they have been together with your family. Keep up the good work! -Joe-

Bob Casey:
Wow, all I can say Wow! How lucky Dave and Edwina are to have had such a great vacation tour of Berlin with Reinhard, Angela, Andrea and family. Boy the photo's were wonderful to see, and I was wishing it was me there. The city looks nice in the photo's and I have seen where they have built many new buildings. All I can say is that Dave and Edina sure had the best tour guides in town, you could not pay and get better then what Dave and Edwina had ( Reinhard & Andrea). Great update Reinhard, I really enjoy reading and looking at all the photo's. Very nice job! -Bob-

Sol Katz:
Reinhard, reading the entries from David and Edwina I felt that they said what so many of us feel after meeting you and your family. Paulette and I felt the same way and can't wait to see you all again. Stay well. -Sol & Paulette-

Rick Bradley :
Thank you Mr. Henderson for contributing your great story for all of us to read. Most of all thank you for allowing me and other old Berlin Vets to join you and your lovely wife on your trip through Reinhard's beautiful city. Without a doubt you were in good hands with our extended family Reinhard, Angela and Andrea who know the city of Berlin like the back of their hand. I could feel your passion and love for the city of Berlin from your story. It was obvious to me that your experience rekindled many very special moments. You and your wife did a great job expressing those feelings. I would especially enjoy tasting about 75 of those Bockwurst and Currywurst with that wonderful hot spicy mustard, right now. Man! That was survival food for the G.I. I found myself drooling on my keyboard. I wish to extend a big thanks to you and to your darling wife for recounting your adventure for all of us to enjoy. You have been instrumental in 'Keeping The Good Memories Alive' thank you so much. A special thanks goes out to our brother and friend Reinhard for making this all possible. This terrific website and all of the stories, photos and camaraderie that all have shared over the years have all been made possible by a very special man with a heart of gold. Your friend and mine Reinhard. I would also like to thank Reinhard?s wonderful family for their support, encouragement, kindness, love and devotion throughout these past few years. What a terrific family! -Rick-

Reinhard, I have contemplated over and over about whether to attempt to write this story for your web-site or not! After a whole lot of thinking of how to explain it, I have come to the conclusion that probably a lot of the old Berlin Vets will get a kick out of it, and will be as amazed as I was at the event. So, here goes, I will try to tell it.

It all started back when you did the story about the Berlin NCO Academy, from and 'ole' tanker by the name of Connie Schornhorst. Most of you probably know that Connie was assigned to the 40^th Armored at Turner Barracks. Folks, if you haven't read Connie's story, do so. It was really very funny. The thing was, as I sat here one night,about midnight, I opened your E-mail informing folks about the story from Connie, so, I went to the site and started to read Connie's new story. I read a few paragraphs, and was really getting a laugh out of it, and all of a sudden, the hair stood up on the back of my neck. You see, I also had attended the NCO Academy at Andrews Barracks, and some of the things that I was reading about, I also had lived through. The more of it I read, the more enthused I got. I thought, surely, no, it just could not be so. Yet, my mind pondered the very, very, remote possibility that Connie and I had attended the same class. I put that ridiculous notion to rest, and turned off my 'puter monster' for the night. I have to admit, though, I had a little trouble going to sleep that night.

The next afternoon, I got back in the story again, and there just happened to be a picture of Connie's Certificate of Graduation included in the story. It had the dates of his attendance, and even his Class number. I just happened to have my class group picture, but could in no way remember dates and Class number. I took my class picture, and the picture of Connie that was at the beginning of his story, and I began to search my picture for anyone who looked anything like him. And guess what!! I found one that really did look similar to him. I called my wife for verification, and she said yes, but he looks much thinner. I laughed and said yes, but remember, we had just completed 6 of the most trying and grueling weeks of our young lives. The Academy was a strictly No Bull deal. You were on duty most all the time--no bars, no frauleins, absolutely no fun.

Now, I was really fired up about all this. I could remember that I had a Certificate of Graduation somewhere, but probably had not seen it in 50 years. I began to look. I looked high and low, in every place I could think of. My wife and I had moved several times through the years, and anything could have happened to it. I had nearly given up when I came across an old photo album that I could not remember even having. In there, I found a lot of my old military orders, and believe it or not, there was my Certificate from the Berlin NCO Academy. I took it, very carefully, and read the dates of 23 January 1959 to 7 March 1959----Class Nr 21. I nearly fell from my chair---this was the same Nr. and dates that was on Connie's certificate. I just kept thinking, this just can't be!!!

At this point, I was not about to quit. Reinhard, I went to your guest book, and looked up Connie's E-mail, and immediately sent him off an E-mail, and a copy of that group picture that I had of us. It may have been the same day, or at least the next, that I got this E-mail back from Connie, verifying indeed, that it was his picture that was in my group picture. He even pointed out the young GI that I had picked out. What an amazing surprise it was for me. Connie said he didn't even remember us taking a group picture. I got his 'snail mail' address, and sent him a copy of the original, as I had three of them for some reason.

Boy, stranger things have happened, but not to me. Two people, 50 years later, having attended the same NCO Academy Class, in Berlin, Germany, and coming in contact again. Ridiculous!!! I have to tell you, I have been blessed with a new friend. Maybe Connie and I spoke to each other some 50 years ago, just in passing, but now we speak on the phone nearly every week, and also by E-mail. Connie is A-1 in my book, and we are both on in our years now, but it would surprise you to hear the things we can remember about our time in Berlin. Let me just make a testimony to you. All the things that Connie wrote about the Academy, were the very truth--no BS. I lived them right along side of him. Don't know how we survived it, but we both did. I have to remind myself that we were both just kids then, and in pretty good physical condition. You had to be to survive that course.

Reinhard, I have tried to write this simply as a human interest story, and nothing more. If you see fit to put it in you web site, please do so. If not, just read and enjoy. I know a lot of the Veterans probably had friends there, and have had no word from them since leaving the Service. This has got to show you that anything is possible. Connie and I may not have a lot longer to be friends here on this earth, but whatever that time is, we will certainly remain as friends from the past. By the way, Connie lives in Evansville, Ind., and I live in Jefferson, Tx., and yes, I have already checked the mileage!! And Reinhard, all this has been made possible by your hard work on your Memory site.

It was my good fortune to know Steve Bowman. Even though we got together only a couple times, we corresponded, on and off, for nearly fifteen years.

In the mid-1990s, Steve was conducting research in preparation for writing a definitive history of the 28^th U.S. Infantry Regiment, "Black Lions of Cantigny". The Regiment's Veterans' organization president suggested I contact Steve to provide information regarding unit activities during the Cold War period 1961 - 1964 when I served active duty in 1st Battle Group, 28th Infantry, 1st Infantry Division - including a "Long Thrust" tour in occupied West Berlin. Fortunately, I had a load of documents and was able to help Steve prepare that portion of his history document. During that time, we corresponded via "snail mail" - he sent several drafts for my review in order to maintain absolute accuracy. Steve's research paid off with the publication of his book:

A CENTURY OF VALOR, THE FIRST ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF THE TWENTY-EIGHTH UNITED STATES INFANTRY REGIMENT - BLACK LIONS -,

published in 2004 by the Cantigny First Division Foundation and the 28^th Infantry Regiment Association. One of my most treasured possessions is a hard-bound copy of that book, personally autographed by the author who added some flattering comments for my benefit.

In June 2003, Steve and I finally met in person at the BUSMVA annual reunion in Columbia, South Carolina. During that reunion, we had several conversations about military history, including one at Ft. Jackson where Steve joined Conrad Schornhorst and me for a mess hall lunch. Someone photographed the two of us in the lobby of the hotel and added that photo to the reunion "memory book". Even though he never served in the 28^th Infantry during his military career, Steve was very knowledgeable about the unit's history and commented positively, seeing me displaying Black Lion insignia.

Taking an interest in military history, I wrote several articles for publication. While writing, I found Steve to be an excellent and willing resource. Having formally studied military history to the PhD level, Steve was indeed an expert and willing to assist my research effort via email. As a retired Army officer, he also had access to historical documents and other information which was unavailable to me. Whenever I had an "unanswerable question" I'd contact Colonel Bowman who either answered the question or told me where to obtain the needed information. In 2006, at my request, Steve led a delegation of 1^st Infantry Division Veterans who presented a plaque to Berlin's McNair Museum. The plaque honors Big Red One troops and units serving in West Berlin during the Cold War.

My last meeting with Steve Bowman was at the 2007 reunion near Valley Forge, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Steve, the gentleman scholar, and I enjoyed discussing his latest military history research. At that time, he was recording and analyzing 1st Infantry Division operations in the current Iraq campaign of an ongoing War on Terror. I was honored when Steve later requested, and of course received, my permission to make copies of my article "Freedom Affirmed" (about President Kennedy's 1963 Berlin visit) to distribute to Army officers attending "staff rides" he was leading in Germany.

In January 2009 at Ft. Riley, Kansas, Colonel Stephen L. Bowman was officially inducted into the 28^th U.S. Infantry Regiment as an "Honorary Black Lion" in recognition of his major effort to write the Regiment's official history. He commented about his pride in being authorized to display the Black Lions of Cantigny insignia.

The previous year, Steve traveled from his Berlin home to Grafenwoehr, in Western Germany, to address the newly activated 2^nd Battalion, 28^th Infantry (172^nd Infantry Brigade) and orient new Black Lions regarding their unit's history, traditions, and honors.

Steve Bowman had many admirable qualities. He was brilliant, generous of time and energy, and a true friend to many. Although I didn't know him really well, I think of Steve Bowman as one of the finest men I've known, and wish that I and others could be more like him - the world would be a better place.